Plant Evaluation Notes

 

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An Evaluation Study of Hardy Ornamental Grasses

An Evaluation Study of Hardy Ornamental Grasses  |  Issue 43 2018

Richard G. Hawke, Plant Evaluation Manager and Associate Scientist

 

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Andropogon gerardii

Andropogon gerardii

Calamagrostis ×acutiflora 'Overdam'

Calamagrostis xacutiflora 'Overdam'

Panicum virgatum 'Dallas Blues'

Panicum virgatum 'Dallas Blues'

Ornamental grasses is a collective term that distinguishes grasses planted in gardens and other amenity landscapes from those growing in natural places. A variety of grasses are used horticulturally—both natives and exotics—and range in size from gigantic pampas grass (Cortaderia selloana) to diminutive blue fescue (Festuca glauca). In the gardening world, ornamental grasses are commonly cited as companion plants for perennials regardless of their specific traits, which gives the impression that grasses are universal, thus interchangeable. A closer look reveals their distinctive traits in an array of shapes, sizes, colors, and textures that complement and mingle beautifully with perennials and woody plants alike.

The grass family, Poaceae or Gramineae, is one of the largest families of flowering plants with more than 600 genera and 10,000 species encompassing the true grasses, which includes bamboos. Grasses grow on every continent and are part of all major biomes. As pioneer plants, grasses are often adapted to survival in extreme conditions such as heat, cold, drought, low fertility, or toxicity. Beyond their ornamental uses, grasses are crucial to our existence—many grasses are important cereal grains such as wheat, corn, millet, rice, rye, oats, and barley.

There is a similarity and simplicity that grasses share, but leaves, habits, and flowers can vary greatly from one species to another. Grass stems, or culms, are typically rounded and herbaceous—bamboos are specialized grasses whose culms have a woody character. Grass leaves consist of three parts: blade, sheath, and ligule. The flattened blade extends out from the sheath, which clasps the culm at a joint or node. The ligule, often marked by a row of hairs, is at the juncture of the blade and sheath. Blades are usually narrow with parallel venation and pointed tips, and can be short to quite long. Leaf margins may be smooth or lined with sharp teeth.

Pennisetum alopecuroides 'Red Rocket'

Pennisetum alopecuroides 'Red Rocket'

Sporobolus heterolepis 'Tara'

Sporobolus heterolepis 'Tara'

Grass habits are characterized by two main traits. First, grasses have either running or clumping growth forms. Running grasses such as giant reed (Arundo donax) and buffalo grass (Buchloe dactyloides) spread by rhizomes or stolons, which may spread aggressively and take over more space than intended. Hakone grass (Hakonechloa macra) is a runner that grows so slowly it might be mistaken for a clumping grass. In contrast, clumping grasses form discrete non-rhizomatous crowns and while they make excellent accent plants, they can be massed to great effect too. Second, grasses are either warm- or cool-season plants. Warm-season grasses break dormancy late in the spring, put on the greatest growth in the warmest weather, and flower later in the summer. This group includes fountain grass (Pennisetum alopecuroides), switch grass (Panicum virgatum), prairie dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepis), and big and little bluestems (Andropogon gerardii and Schizachyrium scoparium, respectively). Cool-season grasses emerge earlier in the spring and may stall out during hot, dry weather. Rainfall and cooler autumnal temperatures re-invigorate cool-season grasses such as feather reed grass (Calamagrostis spp.), grama (Bouteloua spp.), and purple moor grass (Molinia caerulea).

Bouteloua gracilis 'Blonde Ambition'

Bouteloua gracilis 'Blonde Ambition' 

Grass inflorescences are either simple or compound in structure, and commonly located at the terminal of the culm. Spikes, racemes, or panicles are types of simple inflorescences, while compound inflorescences are made up of a combination of one or more of the three simple types. Inflorescences can be loose to constricted in shape, quite sizable with many florets, and often take on different colors and forms as seeds ripen. The inflorescences as a whole rather than the typically nondescript individual florets provides the floral show. Each floret consists of the flower—stamens and pistil—and two bracts that enclose the flower. The outer, lower bract is the lemma, and the inner, upper bract is the palea. One or more florets together is a spikelet, which is subtended by two glumes that may be tipped with long bristlelike appendages called awns. For example, fountain grass florets feature significant awns. Grass flowers are often wind-pollinated, and the seeds or grains are typically dispersed by wind and rain, or transported by mammals, birds, and insects.

Most grasses prefer full sun and moist, well-drained soils but many are adaptable to drier conditions and are drought-tolerant once established. Prairie dropseed, big bluestem, and little bluestem are good examples of grasses that tolerate droughty conditions. On the other hand, purple moor grass requires consistent moisture in hot, dry periods as it is not drought-tolerant—it grows naturally in moors, bogs, fens, and grasslands throughout Europe to western Siberia. Some grasses prefer some level of shade; for example, morning sun will enhance the variegated and golden-leaved forms of Hakone grass but too much sunlight may burn the foliage. Fertilizing grasses is unnecessary, and results in lush growth that may become over ly vigorous and floppy.

Grasses are generally easy to grow and typically require minimal maintenance. Culms should be cut down to 4 inches or so annually in late fall to early winter, or in late winter to early spring before new leaves emerge. Late season clean-up is recommended for purple moor grass because although the colorful stems may remain erect for much of the winter, they are as likely to flop, dislodge, and look a mess before winter begins. Grasses left up overwinter provide structure, color, movement, and shelter for wildlife. The tool used to cut grasses depends on the plant size and density of the crown. Hand pruners, hedge shears, or saws are all options for smaller grasses; electric hedge shears, weedwhips, and chainsaws can be helpful on larger grasses such as eulalia (Miscanthus spp.) and switch grass. Shorter grasses with looser crowns such as Hakone grass are easily managed with pruners or by running a lawn mower over them. Leaf margins can be razor-sharp and cause skin irritation and itching, so heavy gloves and long sleeves are recommended when working around grasses. Deadheading is a personal choice and only necessary to discourage reseeding.

Grasses do not need to be regularly divided unless clumps are overgrown or have developed hollow centers—every five to seven years is a good rule of thumb. Divide clumps in the spring before the new leaves emerge. If that window is missed, actively growing grasses can be cut back by a third before dividing or transplanting. A wellsharpened axe or garden spade may be needed to divide dense clumps into smaller sections; healthy divisions should be replanted immediately. Purple moor grass can be difficult to divide because of its dense root system and how slowly it reestablishes. Hakone grass is shallow-rooted and prone to frost-heaving, so spring division and transplanting is recommended to ensure plants are well-rooted by fall.

Grasses can be affected by a few diseases, and excess moisture seems to be the catalyst in many cases. Rusts can be troublesome in wet, humid weather; root and crown rots are problems in poorly drained soils; and excessively wet cultural conditions, especially in heavily shaded sites, may promote anthracnose and leaf spots. Planting in full sun— where appropriate—and well-drained soils, and minimizing overhead irrigation are helpful in keeping diseases at bay. Most grasses are touted as deer-resistant; however, ground-burrowers such as gophers and voles can feed on roots throughout the year, and rabbits may be troublesome too.

Whether large or small, singly or grouped, grasses are equally brilliant in home gardens or corporate campuses, and are integral in the matrix of prairies and meadows. For structure, motion, sound, light, and even scent, grasses are unparalleled in their sensory effects, and their charm is tenfold when massed. Grasses animate landscapes with the supple dance of stems, the sibilant rustle of leaves, and the play of light through airy flowerheads.

List of Sections
The Evaluation Study
The Performance Report
Top-rated Grasses
Summary

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References

Armitage, A.M. 2008. Herbaceous Perennial Plants, Third Edition. Champaign, IL: Stipes Publishing L.L.C.

Darke, R. 2007. The Encyclopedia of Grasses for Livable Landscapes. Portland, OR: Timber Press

Madeja, G., Umek, L., and Havens, K. 2012. "Differences in Seed Set and Fill of Cultivars of Miscanthus Grown in USDA Cold Hardiness Zone 5 and Their Potential for Invasiveness." Journal of Environmental Horticulture: March 2012, Vol. 30, No. 1, pp. 42-50.

Rice, G., editor-in-chief. 2006. American Horticultural Society Encyclopedia of Perennials. New York, NY: DK Publishing, Inc.

The Plant Evaluation Program is supported by the Woman’s Board of the Chicago Horticultural Society and the Searle Research Endowment.

Plant Evaluation Notes© are periodic publications of the Chicago Botanic Garden.

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