Q. Help! I never got around to planting my tulip bulbs this fall. Is there anything I can do to save them?

A. If the bulbs are still firm and show no signs of decay or rot, you can pot them up for indoor forcing. Choose a wide, shallow pot with good drainage and use either a commercial potting mix or a soilless mix of one part peat moss, one part vermiculite, and one part perlite. Place the bulbs close together with just their tips exposed at the soil line. Position the tulip bulbs with their flat sides against the edge of the pot, since the largest leaf will originate from this side and will hang decoratively over the edge of the container. Water well and store your pot for 13 to 14 weeks in a refrigerator (cover the pot with a plastic bag), a cold frame, a window well, or an unheated garage. In the latter cases, mulch well with 6 to 8 inches of straw, leaves, or plastic foam pellets, as it is important that the bulbs stay cold and dormant but don’t freeze.

During this storage time, check the moisture in the soil and water lightly if the soil has dried out. When pale green shoots emerge, move the pot to a cool (55- to 65-degree Fahrenheit) room with good sunlight. When the flower buds begin to color, move the pot to a location out of the sun.

Q. I would like to plant varieties of tulips and daffodils this fall in addition to smaller bulbs. Any suggestions for planting techniques?

A. Most tulips and narcissi can be planted throughout autumn until the ground freezes. Pick a sunny, well-drained area and plant your bulbs three times as deep as the height of the bulb. If the soil is heavy clay, mix in finely shredded wood chips or composted leaf mold. When planting a large bulb bed, dig out all the soil first, arrange the bulbs (usually three to five per square foot) and then backfill with soil. Sprinkle a granular fertilizer (5-10-5) on top, water the bed well and apply a few inches of lightweight mulch. Mulch will stall the soil from freezing early and allow bulbs to develop a strong root system during the fall. Bulbs always look best when planted in large drifts.

Q. I always look forward to giving and receiving plants of the holiday season. One plant I would like to keep year-round is the amaryllis. Please explain how to do this.

A. Many plants can have an extended life well beyond the holidays if they are given the appropriate care. Here are some helpful tips to keep your plant blooming.

Plant your amaryllis bulb in a soilless mix in a pot that is as wide as it is tall, with one-third of the bulb above soil level. Water thoroughly. Place the pot in bright, but indirect, light. Water only when the soil dries out. Rotate the pot and stake extra-tall varieties to prevent lopsided growth. After the plant flowers, remove faded blooms, but do not cut off the flower stalk until it has yellowed and withered. Within a few weeks, new foliage will begin to grow. Fertilize the plant with dilute half-strength 10-15-10 fertilizer once a month. In mid-May, the bulb with foliage may be taken outside to summer in a sheltered spot in the garden. In the fall, bring the bulb indoors, cut off yellow leaves, remove from the pot and lay the bulb on its side in a dark, cool room for several months. When the bulb shows new growth, repot in fresh soilless mix, resume watering and return the pot to bright indirect light.

Q. How and when should I divide my spring-blooming bulbs?

A. When spring-blooming bulbs exhibit a diminished floral display and show a decreased amount of vigor, it is usually time to divide them. Dig the bulbs up with a spading fork after the leaves have dried and turned brown. Pull the clumps apart or separate them with a spade, detaching any bulblets that separate easily. Discard any bulbs that are damaged, soft, or showing signs of decay. Replant healthy individual bulbs immediately. Young bulbs will need to grow to a mature size in order to flower, which usually takes approximately one or two years.

Q. I am looking for a colorful companion to some early-spring flowering bulbs. A friend suggested the low-growing anemone.

A. Greek windflower (Anemone blanda), is an early-blooming, spreading perennial that works well as a colorful ground cover with spring bulbs. Hardy from zones 5 to 8, it prefers moist, partially shaded (and sheltered) conditions and will spread through runners and seed if planted in the right site. The attractive, fernlike foliage forms low mats, and the white, blue or pink flowers with yellow button centers resemble daisies. Both the spring bulbs and the windflower plants will die back after blooming, creating space in the garden bed for emerging warm-season perennials.

Q: How do I protect my spring blooming bulbs from wildlife?

A: Squirrels, chipmunks, mice, and voles can wreak havoc on bulb beds. These animals prefer crocus and tulip bulbs, but will often dig and discard others. To discourage wildlife from digging and eating bulbs, place chicken wire over the planting area. Wire can be laid an inch or two below the soil surface or laid across the planting bed. Use large gauge wire for larger sized bulbs and smaller gauge wire for smaller bulbs.

Another option is to apply a thin layer of dried blood meal over the garden bed after bulbs have been planted. Blood meal will need to be applied after periods of heavy rainfall or irrigation.

If animals continue to be a nuisance, consider planting wildlife resistant bulbs such as daffodils or alliums.

Q. I would like to grow some unusual bulbs in containers this summer. What are the basic guidelines to ensure good growth?

A. Late winter or early spring is a good time to consider the wide range of exotic bulbs available for container planting. Summer-flowering annual bulbs are colorful and unique choices for containers. These include bulbs, tubers, corms, rhizomes such as lily of the Nile (Agapanthus), montbretia (Crocosmia), tuberous begonia (Begonia x tuberhybrida), garden canna (Canna x generalis), caladium (Caladium), elephant ears (Colocasia), calla lily (Zantedeschia), peacock orchid (Acidanthera) and tuberose (Polianthes). By starting these tender bulbs indoors, they will have a head start before being gradually introduced to balmy outdoor conditions. After May 15 the containers can take up permanent residence outside.

Most bulbs prefer a good commercial potting soil with some added organic matter and sand. Plant the bulbs shallow, 1 inch below soil level, except for tuberous begonias, which are only partially covered with soil. Crowd the bulbs closely in a heavy container able to withstand windy weather. Correct watering is critical with bulbs. Water when the soil feels dry to the touch (unless otherwise specified). Bulbs rot in soggy, overwatered conditions. Provide indirect light until active growth appears, when most bulbs prefer full sun (again, not begonias). Rotate the pot to ensure even growth. Fertilize with a dilute balanced 15-15-15 solution.

Bulbs must have a dry, dark, dormant season. During fall, dig the bulbs up, remove all foliage and dirt and dry in the sun. Store in loose peat moss or vermiculite in a cool, dark place during winter. Some gardeners store the bulbs in their containers in a very cool porch. Do not water during winter. Many bulbs will signal they are ready to grow again by initiating growth early next spring. Plant them immediately.

Q: I'd like to divide and store my Iris plants for the winter. What is the best way to do this?

A:  Iris plants are best divided after flowering in late spring but no later than August to assure that the roots become adequately established before the onset of cold weather. It is not advisable to remove the rhizomes from the ground and store them indoors for the winter. Iris rhizomes may become soft or develop fungal problems, and will dry out from lack of moisture, if stored indoors. After the plants flower next year in late spring or early summer, separate the rhizomes into segments with one set of leaves in each fan along with at least several healthy roots. Prune the foliage back to approximately six inches and plant the rhizomes approximately one inch deep. Keep in mind that after planting the rhizomes, you will need to water regularly until they are established in the new location.  Allow adequate space in between rhizomes to allow them room to grow and prevent overcrowding, which will lead to lack of blooms.

Q. What is the correct fertilizer to use for bulbs?

A. If the bulbs are to be sited in slightly infertile soil, you might add some bulb booster or bone meal on top of the soil after planting. These products have a higher proportion of phosphorus, which is necessary for optimum root development. An alternative would be to sprinkle a 5-10-5 or 10-10-10 fertilizer around the site in spring as the leaves are emerging and then again in fall. Always water in granular fertilizers.

Q: I am storing summer bulbs for the first time — is there anything I need to do for them during the winter?

A:  Bulbs, tubers, and corms need some attention during the dormant winter period. Inspect canna, gladiola, dahlia, caladium, and other stored bulbs this month for dryness and signs of decay. Shriveling indicates that the relative humidity in the storage area is too low. If bulbs are shriveled and packing media is very dry, dampen the material slightly. Bulbs showing obvious signs of rot or spotting should be discarded immediately. All bulbs should be spaced far enough apart to allow for adequate air circulation. 

Stored dahlias should be plump. If they are severely shriveled, place them in a bucket of water for several hours to re-hydrate. Slight damage can be cut away to fresh, white flesh. Re-wrap the roots in lightly dampened newspaper and store.

Q. I bought several small pots of flowering dwarf iris, crocus and mini-daffodils from the grocery store in February. What do I do with them after they flower?

A. These are all hardy bulbs in the Midwest and are normally planted outside in fall to bloom in early spring. This normal cycle of growth is disturbed when they are forced to bloom indoors in winter. Although many people discard them after they bloom, some gardeners treat them in the following fashion in the hopes they might bloom again outside in their gardens. Keep the plants in bright light and continue to water as needed. Apply a very dilute 5-10-5 fertilizer twice a month. Allow the foliage and flower stems to yellow completely before removing them. In spring, transplant the small bulbs to a sunny, well-drained location in your garden that does not require daily watering. Mark the spots so they will not be disturbed during their summer dormancy. Apply another dose of fertilizer in the fall. If they fail to come up the following spring, you can feel free to dig up the bulbs and discard them.

Q: In the fall, I always have trouble remembering where I need to plant bulbs in my garden, and often find myself planting too close to existing ones. Any suggestions?

A:  Although fall is the right time of year to plant spring-flowering bulbs in the garden, it is difficult to remember where to place them in relation to existing bulbs.  When bulbs begin to emerge throughout spring, take photos of the plants to remind you where to plant additional bulbs.  Taking photos at weekly intervals in the spring beginning in April will be valuable in determining color and height needs, as well as various bloom times.  Also, photos are nice supplements to journal entries.  A garden bed with early flowering Crocus or Helleborus may benefit from planting bulbs that bloom later in the spring such as Tulips, Daffodils, or Camassia.  Taking photos can be especially helpful when trying to determine where to plant additional bulbs in naturalized lawns. 

Q. For the best spring flower display, when should I fertilize my tulip and daffodil bulbs?

A. To produce the maximum number of top-quality spring flowers, tulips and daffodils require care first in fall, at planting time, and then again in spring. At both of these times, gardeners can enrich the soil by adding a couple of inches of organic compost as well as synthetic fertilizer.

After planting the bulbs in fall, top-dress the bed with a balanced, 10-10-10 or 10-15-10 slow-release fertilizer. Lightly cultivate the soil to disperse the fertilizer, or water it in well. Apply fertilizer to the top of the soil instead of the planting hole to avoid burning the bulbs.

In spring, apply the same fertilizer when new green shoots appear. Continue to fertilize perennial bulbs twice a year at these times at no more than two pounds per 100 square feet of planting space at each application (or follow exact label directions). Although established bulbs are in a dormant state during summer, they will initiate new root growth in fall, thus utilizing the available fertilizer.

Fertilizer is only one of several ways to encourage bulbs to generate and store food for their spring flower display. Gardeners should also remember to let leaves and stems remain attached to bulbs this spring until they have lost their green color.

As long as they remain green, they are manufacturing carbohydrates that the bulbs will store and use as energy for next year’s growth.

Q.  When should I plant my tender annual bulbs?

A.  It is safe to plant your tender bulbs after the average date of the last frost, which is approximately May 15 in the Chicago area. It is important not to work the soil while it is too wet. Soil should crumble when it is squeezed into a ball. If it doesn’t, then it is best to wait until it dries out a bit to avoid ruining the soil’s structure. Tubers of caladium, canna, dahlia, montbretia (Crocosmia), and tuberose will emerge approximately two weeks after planting. Set out stakes for tall dahlias before filling in the planting hole so you do not skewer the tubers. Consider planting gladiola bulbs in two-week intervals to have a continuous supply of blooms throughout the summer.  Plant tuberous begonias that were started in a soilless compost earlier in the year in well-drained soil approximately two weeks after the frost-free date, some time in early June. Dormant tubers that were started in February should begin to bloom in June and those started in March or early April should bloom in July.

Q. I would like to plant varieties of tulips and daffodils this fall in addition to smaller bulbs. Any suggestions for planting techniques?

A. Most tulips and narcissi can be planted throughout autumn until the ground freezes. Pick a sunny, well-drained area and plant your bulbs three times as deep as the height of the bulb. If the soil is heavy clay, mix in finely shredded wood chips or composted leaf mold. When planting a large bulb bed, dig out all the soil first, arrange the bulbs (usually three to five per square foot) and then backfill with soil. Sprinkle a granular fertilizer (5-10-5) on top, water the bed well and apply a few inches of lightweight mulch. Mulch will stall the soil from freezing early and allow bulbs to develop a strong root system during the fall. Bulbs always look best when planted in large drifts.

Q: How do I take care of my amaryllis now that it’s bloomed?

A: Provide your amaryllis with plenty of light while its blooming. As the flowers fade, remove the flower and stalk so the amaryllis does not use energy producing seeds. Place in a sunny window and allow the foliage to develop. The foliage is producing energy that will be stored in the bulb and used to fuel the next bloom cycle. Place outdoors in a spot that has morning sun and afternoon shade once all danger of frost has passed. Fertilize monthly. Before the threat of frost, bring indoors. Reduce watering and allow foliage to yellow and die back naturally. Once the leaves have browned completely, remove them and place the bulb in a cool, dark area for two to four months. After the rest period, water your amaryllis bulb and place it in a warm, sunny location. Soon your amaryllis will be blooming again.

Please contact Plant Information Service at (847) 835-8362 or plantinfo@chicabotanic.org for more detailed information.

Q. I added quite a few dahlias to my garden this year and they bloomed beautifully. Please advise on winter care.

A. Dahlia tubers should be dug up after a few true frosts and after the above-ground plant material blackens. Cut the plants down to 6 inches and dig up the tuber clump very carefully, using a pitchfork rather than a shovel. Wash or dust off all soil and dry the clump in the sun, but be sure to bring in the tubers if frost threatens again. Label the tubers properly with name, height and color of dahlias. Dust with fungicide if desired. Store tubers in boxes of peat moss, shredded newspapers, sawdust or even sand where temperatures range between 35 and 50 degrees. Inspect tubers during winter to check for rotted ones (discard) or overly dried ones (lightly sprinkle a little water on them). Dahlia tubers can be replanted the following spring.

Q. After a few warm days, some of my bulbs are sprouting prematurely. Will this hurt the bulbs or future blooms?

A. Premature sprouting due to unseasonably warm weather is not unusual. This will not affect the bulbs themselves. However, subsequent below-freezing weather may cause browning of early leaves, and, if buds have formed, prevent flowers from developing properly. No action is necessary to protect the bulbs themselves, but if more than 1 to 2 inches of leaf and/or flower buds are visible, we recommend covering the immediate area with a dry, lightweight mulch such as shredded dry leaves, straw, or sawdust. Once the danger of frost has passed, remove the mulch and allow the sprouts to grow naturally. 

Please contact Plant Information at (847) 835-0972 or Click here to show mail address for more information.

Q. I am fascinated by the use of flowers in preparing certain food dishes. Are there some basic guidelines to follow when choosing the flowers?

A. Edible petals are creative additions to desserts, teas, salads and fruit dishes, as well as charming decorations for most vegetable and meat preparations. Not all flowers are edible, however! Check with a reputable reference before consuming flowers or other plant parts. The American Medical Association publishes a paperback guide entitled The AMA Handbook of Poisonous and Injurious Plants. Avoid using flowers from the florist or flowers that have been sprayed with pesticides or fungicides. Use only flowers you have grown yourself or ones sold as edible in the produce section of stores.

A few popular suggestions to start you on your way include roses, marigolds, lavender, pansies, violets, apple or crab apple blossoms, geraniums (Pelargonium, that is), calendulas, tulips, tuberous begonias, honeysuckle, nasturtiums, lilacs, dianthus and certainly the flowers of all herbs.

Pick the flowers early in the morning, wash the blossoms and dry them thoroughly on paper towels. Decorate hot dishes at the last minute since steam will wilt the flowers quickly. Cold or frozen dishes may be decorated ahead of time.

Q: I have some tulip and daffodil bulbs left over from fall planting. How do I "force" them for indoor bloom?

A: If the bulbs are still dry and firm, pot them up in clean pots, using ordinary potting soil. Large bulbs like tulips and daffodils should be covered with soil with just their tips exposed. Water the bulbs well and put the pots in a cool (40- to 45-degree Fahrenheit) spot for approximately 14 weeks. When the bulbs begin to sprout, move the pots into bright but still very cool (60-degree) rooms. When flower buds appear, move the pots to a place where you can enjoy them.

Although you cannot "re-force" these bulbs, they can be planted in the garden early next spring. After your potted bulbs have finished blooming, move the pot to a sunny windowsill and allow the foliage to completely wither. Be sure to water the plant during this process. As long as the foliage remains green, it is continuing to manufacture food for the bulb. If you remove it prematurely, you run the risk of depleting the bulb’s energy.

Q. What are the small, round, black growths on my lilies?

A. Certain species of Lilium (including L. lancifolium, L. bulbiferum, L. sargentiae and L. davidii) produce shiny black bulbils in the leaf axils of the plant — right next to the main stem. These are specialized reproductive structures that are genetically identical to the plant. Frequently they fall off and take root on their own, or they may be harvested from the parent plant in early autumn and set in trays of loamy potting compost spaced about 1 inch apart and 1 inch deep. The trays should be left in a cold frame until the following fall, when the small plants can be transplanted into the garden.

Q. I have many varieties of Narcissus in my garden and some are not blooming as well as they used to. What can I do to help?

A. There are several reasons why flowering bulbs will produce foliage but few flowers:

• Need for division: As with many perennials, the center of a clump of daffodil bulbs may lose vigor and weaken as the clump expands outward. These plants require division. After the foliage has yellowed, dig up the clump and divide it into small sections. Replant each section in full sun at the same depth it was planted before, water well, and top dress with an organic balanced fertilizer.
• Insufficient sunlight: Most Narcissus prefer full sun, although they will tolerate partial shade. Over time, surrounding trees will cast more shade as they grow larger. Divide and relocate your bulbs to a sunnier site.
• Depleted soil: As bulbs multiply over the years, they occupy more space in the garden and consume more nutrients from the soil. These nutrients need to be replaced by adding organic matter to the soil twice a year, or by mixing a slow-release fertilizer with the soil above the bulbs. Take care not to place fertilizer directly on or below the bulbs.
• Damage to foliage: After the bulb has flowered, the stems and foliage must remain attached to the bulb until they begin to lose their green color. This signifies that they have finished fortifying the bulb with the food it will need to bloom the following year. If the foliage was removed prematurely or damaged due to disease, this might adversely affect flower production. Braiding, tying, or clumping the leaves into a bunch prevents sunlight from reaching all parts of the leaves, and is therefore not advised. 

Q. For the best spring flower display, when should I fertilize my tulip and daffodil bulbs?

A. To produce the maximum number of top-quality spring flowers, tulips and daffodils require care first in fall, at planting time, and then again in spring.

At both of these times, gardeners can enrich the soil by adding a couple of inches of organic compost as well as synthetic fertilizer.

After planting the bulbs in fall, top-dress the bed with a balanced, 10-10-10 or 10-15-10 slow-release fertilizer. Lightly cultivate the soil to disperse the fertilizer, or water it in well. Apply fertilizer to the top of the soil instead of the planting hole to avoid burning the bulbs.

In spring, apply the same fertilizer when new green shoots appear. Continue to fertilize perennial bulbs twice a year at these times at no more than two pounds per 100 square feet of planting space at each application (or follow exact label directions). Although established bulbs are in a dormant state during summer, they will initiate new root growth in fall, thus utilizing the available fertilizer.

Fertilizer is only one of several ways to encourage bulbs to generate and store food for their spring flower display. Gardeners should also remember to let leaves and stems remain attached to bulbs this spring until they have lost their green color.

As long as they remain green, they are manufacturing carbohydrates that the bulbs will store and use as energy for next year’s growth.

Q. I have ordered several hundred tulip bulbs for fall planting. Can I be assured of their return for many years?

A. Most of the large hybrid tulips planted today are not true perennials in the Chicago area. Tulips require moisture in spring, when they are actively growing, followed by a dry, dormant period during summer. After tulips fade, most gardeners plant annuals in their place—plants that require constant watering throughout the summer. This excess moisture in the soil rots most of the tulip bulbs and accounts for their "one-year only" performance.

Certain species of tulips are true perennials—the species or botanical tulips that are much shorter than the tall hybrids and generally bloom much earlier. Tulipa kaufmanniana and Tulipa fosteriana are also more reliable than the hybridized bulbs.