1. Rain Gauge

The weather report calls for rain. We get a downpour for 15 or 30 minutes and may think that’s good enough. But that short shower only washes the dust off the leaves. A rain gauge placed in an open area, away from buildings, fences and trees, provides a true picture of how much rain reaches the soil. In mid-summer, when plants are in a full flush of foliage, raindrops often bounce off the leaves, and if the shower is brief, the soil below remains dry. Think about a tomato plant or a hydrangea and how deep their roots reach down into the soil. The water needs to reach those roots down low, not just at the surface. Inexpensive analog and digital rain gauges are available at big-box stores, garden centers, online, and at the Garden’s gift shop. More expensive digital “weather stations” collect precipitation totals, temperatures and more.

Check out CoCoRaHS (the Community Collaborative Rain, Hail and Snow Network), a non-profit, community-based network of volunteers working together to measure and map precipitation (rain, hail and snow) in all 50 states. The efforts are sponsored by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) and the National Science Foundation. We use a CoCoRaHS rain gauge in our garden and report precipitation every morning after a rain or snowfall. You can also participate in NOAA’s Citizen Weather Observer Program. It’s a fun project for kids, too.

2. A Sturdy Hose

Northeastern Illinois experienced a long drought last summer. Without supplemental watering, plants became stressed and may show some damage this year. If you have a small garden, you may only need a hose that is 25 or 50 feet long. For larger gardens, there are hoses that reach 100 feet or more. Before buying, think about the length and weight of the hose and whether you’ll connect it to a spray nozzle or an oscillating sprinkler. Some hoses are lightweight, and expand and contract. Others are heavier and perhaps more sturdy, made of metal or heavy duty rubber. And, there are soaker hoses that can be used with timers to automatically provide moisture on a regular basis to flower beds, borders and vegetable gardens.

3. A Soil Test Kit

You can buy the best plants in the world, but if your soil lacks nutrients or organic matter, or is mostly clay or sandy, the plants won’t thrive. A soil test, like a blood test, can indicate what is lacking. Simple soil test kits are available at garden centers, big box stores, and online. A more comprehensive, sophisticated soil analysis can be obtained through a lab, and typically provides an interpretation of test results along with recommendations for improving the soil. If you’re concerned that heavy metals may be present (especially if you have an older home or garage that may have had lead paint), some labs offer those tests as well.

4. A Soil Thermometer

If you grow edibles, a soil thermometer will give you a head start on spring crops. Seeds need specific soil temperature ranges for proper germination. For example, lettuce and spinach seeds can start germinating once the top inch of soil reaches 45°F. I place the tip of the thermometer in the top inch of soil beginning in late March. That may seem early for growing edibles, but last year, high temperatures in the Chicago area during late March through mid-April ranged from 69°to 73° degrees, and the soil had begun to warm. (Once the seeds germinate and leaves appear, we cover the plants overnight when a frost is predicted.)

5. A Compost Pile

If there was ever a magic bullet, it should be compost. That dark, crumbly organic matter is super at promoting moisture retention and opening up soil structure. It aids aeration and helps correct poor soil conditions. Composting is incredibly easy. Even a modest, small enclosed compost bin can fit into most backyards where it’s out of sight—whether you live in an urban or suburban community. Composting is simply a controlled process that transforms kitchen scraps and yard waste into a wonderful soil amendment. As you add vegetable scraps and dry leaves (or junk mail), those unseen microorganisms in the pile consume carbon and nitrogen, helping decomposition. The end result is similar to what you might buy in bags at a garden center.